Just Off Whiskey Row...Lyzzards Lounge and Coyote Joe's Bar and Grill

While we were in Hooligan's Pub, The Hippie suggested we go off Whiskey Row to one of his favorite bars that is just a block over. Lyzzard's Lounge is located on 120 N. Cortez St. in Prescott. Located in a building built in 1905, Lyzzard's is a really cool place.

Lyzzard's boasts to have one of the oldest back bars in the Southwest. I believe it because the workmanship is absolutely fantastic. Not only does it date back to the 1880's, but it is one of Brunswick's finest bars. This bar was built in Chicago and painstakingly shipped down the Mississippi River, around the horn and then up to San Francisco where it was then put on a wagon and pulled through the desert to Prescott, AZ. The backbar was then delivered to it's current location in 1905. After taking a long look, the bar really takes on a life of it's own. It holds more liquor than any other bar I have ever seen in a bar. Now, if you are a beer drinker or a tequila drinker, Lyzzard's has you covered. They serve a wide variety of tequila and imported beer that once you are there, you really don't need to venture far. As you can see to the right, the liquor cabinet is jammed with libations of every kind!

There is a small spot to play darts if you like but in a place like this, it is more about the entertainment. Below is an original picture of the bar that dates back to the early 1900's.

Lyzzard's fully supports local acts as well as some national acts. The Supersuckers, a band that opened for Social Distortion here in Cleveland Ohio at the House of Blues, played at Lyzzard's recently.

If you just want to come in early in the afternoon, have a drink and play some pool, this is a nice relaxing place to take that all in. The Hippie was right, his favorite place could become my favorite place in no time. Wish I still lived in Arizona because Lizzard's would be one of my favorite watering holes!

The last stop on our tour of Whiskey Row and Prescott AZ was Coyote Joe's Bar and Grill. This was a great historical ending to our crawl. Let me tell you, I was crawling! Housed in what used to be the Arizona Hotel in the late 1880's, this is the first location of the brothels established in Arizona. Once you walk through the door, you realize there are two options. Drink at the bar and or enjoy a game of pool in the game room or go straight out back to the patio where you are greeted by another bar and an outdoor stage to enjoy the sounds of many local bands. One of the interesting things about Coyote Joe's is that many believe it is haunted, mostly by the many prostitutes from back in the late 1800's. Everyone from the patrons and employees to the owners have heard or seen things that would make most peoples skin crawl, but the ghostly activity seems to be friendly. Underneath the building and throughout Whiskey Row are underground tunnels beneath the bars which used to house the many opium dens and laundry routs run by the Asian immigrants.

For me and the Hippie, we enjoyed the patio where the evening was just about to descend and cooler temps were coming. We had spent a long but very fine day in Prescott and Whiskey Row and a beer on the patio let us reflect on the day.

If there is a place anywhere in the country to just enjoy a drink and relax, Coyote Joe's was that place.

Jersey Lilly Saloon and Hooligan's Irish Pub

If you plan on doing a pub crawl, the Jersey Lilly would be the best place to do last. Located on the second floor, you might want to take that drink out to the balcony for one of the best views of the Prescott Courthouse Courtyard across the street.

I spoke with Tommy Meredith, owner of the Jersey Lilly Saloon for the past 8+ years and he shared with me a write-up from a book called Historic Prescott by the Prescott Chamber of Commerce in 2004 and it had some amazing stories in there. In 1877, the building was The Palace Hotel. In 1900, the fire that completely wiped out Whiskey Row made silent the drinking, gambling and the cohorting with saloon girls silent. But the owners of the Palace Hotel would not give it up and they vowed to rebuild it better than ever. And they did. Equiped with a saloon, restaurant, barber shop and 20 private rooms. Because of todays building standards, most of the rooms are now offices with only a few rooms remaining. Some of the notables to stay at the Palace hotel were director Sam Peckinpah who stayed there while filming "Junior Bonner" and Janis Joplin who called the Palace her "home away from home."

The stain glass mural as you climb the stairs to the Jersey Lilly is beautiful. Gamblers drinking and enjoying the saloon girls as they partied.

Walking down the hall towards the saloon, to the right, you can see the antique phone booth.

I talked to Tommy and asked about the history of the back bar. He said that the back bar has no real history other than some of it is old while most is piece work. Well, as far as I can see, it's some beautiful piecework.

The problems that Tommy sees today with what's going on here on Whiskey Row is growth. It's killing the vibe of the old west and Tommy is afraid that the new stringent DUI laws as well as the smoking bans are going to bury it even further. The other thing that is tough for business is the growing trend of gallarie and not enough history. I concur with that rationale. Some things shouldn't be messed with and that is the whole idea of the old west and the saloon.

Well, leave it to an Irishman to actually find an Irish pub, even on Whiskey Row. This is a place I could enjoy tossing back a few whiskeys, considering that they have 20+ Irish Whiskeys! Join the club and if you sample all of their Whiskey's in a calendar year, you will be immortalized on Hooligan's "Irish Whiskey Hall of Fame." What more could you ask for?

Hooligan's Irish Pub is the newest bar on the "Row" opening in 2003 and owned by Patrick and Nancy O'Brien who definitely wanted to bring some Irish to Whiskey Row!

I tossed back a Jameson and had a Guiness to make sure I took in the full and proper Irish tradition I grew up with. But there is more to this pub than just a shot and a beer. Hooligan's has Signature Ic Cream Drinks as well as a full line of Irish beers.

Even though St. Patrick's day is their biggest day of the year (they are open 365 days a year), Hooligan's has a Halfway to St. Paddy's Day Party on September 17. Why wait, huh? We don't need to wait for the big day to party and we don't need any excuses to drink now do we?

As you can see, there is a stage above the bar which is really cool. Behind the bar, Hooligan's has a separate room called the Parrot Bay Room. More for the college crowd because of it's specialty drinks and drink specials, this tropical themed bar lend a different look to the vast desert and mountains of Arizona. You can reserve any kind of party you want in the Parrot Bay Room, it holds up to 50 people and is inclusive. Great place to have a party

Matt's Saloon

Our next stop was to Matt's Saloon, a staple on Whskey Row since the early 1960's. Walking into Matt's, you can get a real feel of the old west. When it was first built back in 1901, Matt's first became a mercantile. It became a saloon right after prohibition n 1934.

As with any saloon on Whiskey Row, Matt's Saloon is deep in history and if you really want to know more, just ask any of the patrons or bartenders about the place. I understand that there is a tunnel underneath that connects all the saloons on Whiskey Row. I didn't check it out, I think I'll save that for the next visit.

Matt's is a pretty popular place. Not only can you get a really cold beer and interesting conversation, but you can also bet on the horses. Matt's is the only place in Prescott for all of your off track horse betting. From all three legs of the triple crown from the Kentucky Derby to the Belmont Stakes, all the races at Turf Paradise, and live simulcast races from tracks like Belmont, Bay Meadows Santa Anita and many more!

Matt's also boasts a 1200 sq. ft. oak dance floor. Which is a good thing especially because Matt's has brought in big acts like Waylon Jennings and Bruce Springsteen.

An all around saloon with something to offer to anyone looking for a good time, definitely check out Matt's.

The Palace Restaurant and Saloon

The next stop on my list of bars on Whiskey Row was one of the most anticipated stops. The Palace Restaurant and Saloon. If this place could talk, I would have probably been there for weeks! So, after leaving the Bird Cage, it was time to move on to the most interesting and self-proclaimed oldest frontier saloon in Arizona. Ask just about anyone in Arizona and they will have a story to tell about the Palace.

The Palace was established and opened in September of 1877. There were so many saloons in business at the time but the Palace was more than just a saloon. The frontier men, who were looking for work at that time, could go to the Palace and find something by looking at a work message board. Not only that, but mineral rights were bought and sold at the bar, and the Palace was a place to go to check on cattle trades. It also served as an election place for political races in town.

The original swinging doors bring a real view of the history of this saloon. Walking through these doors was like walking back into time. If you look up and into the Saloon, you can see the pressed tin ceilings. Wyatt Earp and his brother, Virgil (who lived in Prescott) were regulars of The Palace as was Doc Holliday who loved to play poker on Whiskey Row. It is said that Doc Holliday was on a winning streak in the late 1800's and won $10,000 before leaving for Tombstone.

The beautifully hand-carved back bar built by the Brunswick Company in the 1880's is one of the oldest bars on Whiskey Row and has a history of it's own. During the fire that destroyed Whiskey row on July 14th, 1900, the patrons of the bar, probably ranchers, gamblers and cowboys, carried the back bar out of The Palace and across the street to the courtyard where they continued drinking and playing cards while the fire raged on.

As I sat down at the bar, ordered a beer and looked around, I felt that I was in a saloon right out of an old western movie. Thanks to the former owner Bob Brow who rebuilt The Palace right after the fire which included a Chinese restaurant and barber shop. It has since been restored to it's magnificence in 1901. The dining room really adds a nice touch to the great feel of an absolutely impressive saloon.

The Bird Cage Saloon

The Bird Cage Saloon was the first saloon we found ourselves in after having some lunch at Pearl’s Place Cafe to establish some base for the large amount of beer I would consume that day! Locate on Whiskey Row, 148 South Montezuma, Prescott Az, I sat down and ordered a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and began taking pictures of what I consider to be a really awesome place. The saloon is named for the large collection of mounted birds on display in glass cases in the saloon and it is one of the longest running bars on Whiskey Row. Some of the birds were displayed at the Smithsonian Institute in Washington D.C.
Here is a shot of one of the glass cases of the birds on display.

The back bar is a beautiful piece of history. According to Debi Stamm co-owner of the Bird Cage the back bar was built in 1867 by the Brunswick Company in Boston. This bar was put on a ship, sailed around the horn, up through the Sea Of Cortez and then up the Colorado River where it was then put on mule train through the desert to Prescott, AZ. As you can see, the dark wood and hand carvings are beautiful and after taking my pictures and settling onto my bar stool, I began to drink in the history. Back during a time when cowboys, ranchers and gamblers would wander in off the dusty trails and streets, order a beer and maybe take in a game of cards with Doc Holiday or enjoy the company of a saloon girl. The feel of The Bird Cage was great!

Bryan, enjoying the view of the bar.

Bill Stamm bought the bar in 1969 when it was D’s Bar. John Stamm, his son took over in 1982. Interestingly, during prohibition, The Bird Cage Saloon was a mercantile, a Chinese restaurant, and a Chinese laundry. Before that though, it was a pretty wild place with a brothel upstairs and opium dens in the back of the saloon. John noticed that the bar had a crawlspace in the floor near the where the stage is and in it he found an old original attaché box inscribed D Holliday.

This is considered one of only 3 of the oldest back bars to reside in Prescott.

There is a sign in The Bird Cage which defines their philosophy, “Be Nice Or Leave.” Hard not to be nice there, I felt at ease and comfortable. I didn’t want to leave. After returning home from my trip, I contacted Debi Stamm, owner with John her husband and I learned much of the history of the bar. She is responsible for bringing in good talented entertainment at the saloon. Debi is very nice and approachable so if you are ever in The Bird Cage and she is there, don’t hesitate to say hello. She will be more than happy to sit down and talk to you about the bar and its fascinating history.

Whiskey Row, Prescott, Az

This was the visit I was looking forward to for a long time. I had told a few friends that I was going to go around the country to photograph my favorite bars and taverns in the process of writing a book on the subject. Dallas Horn immediately brought up Whiskey Row. He told me a little about the Palace Restaurant and Saloon. He said “You have to go there guy! The history of the Row is amazing!” Boy was he right! I absolutely enjoyed my one day trip to Prescott and I wish I could have stayed longer.
Looking south on Whiskey Row (Montezuma Street) from Gurley Street.

I had only been to Prescott once before and never visited Whiskey Row. That’s a shame! I am kicking myself for not doing this sooner. See, I lived in the greater Phoenix area from 1979-1983 and then again from 1986-1998. Both of my sons, Nicholas and Anthony were born there. Prescott is just a little less than 2 hours north of Phoenix. I love Arizona. It is one of the most diverse of the states in every way, especially the landscape and scenery. You can go from desert to high country pines in just a couple hours drive. It is spectacular! My friend Bryan Dunn went with me on this trip and I don’t know who was looking forward to this more. Before we left Phoenix, Bryan explained to me that he wanted me to enjoy myself and totally experience Whiskey Row. He was my designated driver and carried all of my equipment. He lugged my camera and equipment around all day and I really appreciate that because it’s not easy drinking and working at the same time. We had a blast!

Bryan Dunn, or the Hippie as he is affectionately known walking in the courtyard across the street from Whiskey Row.

Prescott Arizona was founded in 1864 and incorporated into Arizona in 1881. The 100 block of South Montezuma Street is a one block strip known as Whiskey Row because of the enormous amount of saloons that were once there. There are lots of stories that make up the rich history of this town. Ranches, saloons, gambling, the brothels and opium dens were the norm. Legend has it that Whiskey Row used to be situated some blocks west of where it is today. It is on South Montezuma Street now because people who had been drinking and gambling all night on “The Row”, had to walk across a foot bridge that crossed Granite Creek to get home. People who had a little too much to drink were falling into the creek and drowning. If you read the historical markers that line Whiskey Row and some of the markers on the buildings and establishments themselves, you can learn some real fun facts including one that some of the bars back then brewed their own beer and drinks were only 12 ½ ¢. In the late 1800’s, Whiskey Row held over 40 bars and saloons and it was rumored that there was an underground tunnel from the courthouse to the saloons so lawmakers wouldn’t be seen going into these establishments during the day. The Palace is one of the oldest of the saloons on Whiskey Row and Arizona which opened in September 1877. During that time, The Row was frequented by cowboys, farmers, ranchers and gamblers. It was definitely not a “family friendly” place. Most of the saloons were street level, the brothels were upstairs and the opium dens were in the back. These places were wild with gambling and saloon girls all around. Some of Whiskey Rows storied clientele include Wyatt Earp and Doc Holiday. In most recent history Bruce Springsteen, Buck Owens and Waylon Jennings have enjoyed the “Row”. A fire on July 14, 1900 destroyed Whiskey Row along with the historical bars. Amazingly, it was rebuilt from the fall of 1900 and finished in 1905. The integrity of the buildings on the “Row” were built to match the look and style of the early 20th century. There are two back bars and front bars that survived and I will discuss that within the stories of the saloons themselves. There is a great story of how the bar in the Palace survived the fire. These bars were manufactured by the Brunswick Company in either Chicago or Boston and the how they ended up in Arizona was not easy. After they were built and hand-carved, the bars were put on a ship either on the Atlantic Ocean or down the Mississippi River. They sailed around the horn, up the coast of Mexico and were either dropped off in San Francisco or continued to sail up the Colorado River. From there, the bars were put on a mule train and stage-coached across the desert and assembled in the saloons. Can you imagine the enormity of all this? Back bar located in The Bird Cage Saloon. Notice the beautiful handcarvings This back bar dates back to the 1870's

Prescott is only 96 miles northwest of Phoenix and 90 miles southwest of Flagstaff. If you wanted to visit the Grand Canyon, it’s only 95 miles away. Prescott sits at an elevation of 5300ft. It boasts a mild 4 season climate. When we were there, it was 86 degrees and dry while Phoenix was near 112 degrees. The average winter temperature is 50 degrees while summer is 85 degrees. There is plenty to do also as Prescott is known as “Arizona’s Christmas City” and has the worlds oldest, continuously running rodeo. When Arizona became a territory in 1864, Prescott was the capital city until 1889 when Tucson was named capital. As of today, Phoenix is the capital city of Arizona.

Today, Whiskey Row is a great place to visit for both locals and tourists. While in the saloons, you can feel the history. Most of the ceilings are made of decorative pressed tin and even though the bars are newer, you can really sit at the bars and imagine what it may have been like back in the late 1800’s on Whiskey Row. I hope that everyone who reads this book has an opportunity to visit Prescott and spend some time on Whiskey Row. Trust me; you will be glad that you did. I have great memories of that one day I sat at all the bars that you are about to read about and I am looking forward to going back. Hope to see you there!